all aboard the chennai mail express!

5th December 2011

Ernakulam - Chennai

                So just spent my first night on an Indian train and thought I would use some photographs to document the trip I made on what is surely India's most famous mode of public transport. After finishing up in Allepey I left the Brighton gang, who are headed for Varkala, and booked a train destined for Chennai on the evening of the 4th. I fly to Bangkok from Chennai so the plan is to get over there and spend my last week in India checking out Pondicherry and Mammalapuram which both sit very close to the capital on Tamil Nadu's east coast. The Indian rail system is complicated to say the least but actually a remarkable amount of efficiency lies behinds its facade of total chaos. Unlike my previous train journey from Goa to Hospet which I booked using the very useful cleartrip, this time I decided to go to the station and book my ticket there. The reason being that cleartrip had said the train I wanted to catch was fully booked however the Brighton lot had suggested a ticket might be obtained on the foreign tourist quota if I actually went to the station. This indeed was the case and I managed to get a ticket for the train due to depart on the evening of the 4th without hindrance. Therefore on the afternoon of the 4th I arrived at Ernakulam Town station with hours to spare but much to observe.....

Indian trains are divided into several different classes ranging from general unreserved, second class sleeper (the most popular option) to several first class carriages all offering increasing levels of comfort and air conditioning. I opted for second class sleeper and the following picks the story up with me waiting for the Chennai Mail express train which was due to depart Ernakulam at 19.15 and arrive in Chennai at 06.55 the next day.

Arriving at Ernakulam Town station.

Cow chilling on the tracks. It seems that nowhere is off limits to these smelly Gods. 

Sleeper carriage. 

As you can see from the blurred image here, the royal rumbles for seats in the unreserved carriages are ruthless.  Thankfully I had booked a ticket for second class sleeper so didn't have to get in the ring with them!

Notice the man with the blue t-shirt from the previous photograph who didn't make it on board in time and had to hold on for dear life as the train pulled out of the station. It took another 100 meters for him to actually get his whole body on board!

A very relaxed station guard looking very unconcerned by the man in the blue shirt hanging out of the departing train's door as it built up speed out of the station!

Ernakulam Town Station Platform 1.

When I had found my carriage I was fortunate enough to meet a generous man who said he would be happy to swap my middle berth for his top berth so that he could talk with his friends below. Each section of the carriage is divided up so that three beds line each wall with another two on the opposite side of the carriage As you can see the middle berth is folded up meaning you only get to sleep when the other people are ready to go to bed and its folded out. My view with long journeys is that they're better spent asleep so it was a very pleasant surprise that this man offered to switch.

Happy chilling on my top berth.

Dozed off in the sweltering heat of the carriage and was very thankful for the military grade fans adorned to the ceiling which kept everyone relatively cool. Around 2am however, was woken up as the cold of night had crept in through the open windows and the fans which earlier on had been essential, now made me even colder. Dressed up in pretty much all of my clothes to get warm, a benefit of carrying your whole wardrobe on your back I guess!

People settling in for the 12 hour journey.

Arrived safely in Chennai!