the ancient temples of angkor

24th - 26th February 2012

Siem Reap, Cambodia

                  After finishing off in the capital I got myself down to the Phnom Penh bus station and headed towards what is surely the greatest attraction in Cambodia - the ancient temples of Angkor. The region of Angkor served as the epicentre of the Khmer empire between the 9th and 15th centuries and over one hundred temples were built during this period by the Khmer "god-kings" as a testament to their power and dominance over mortal life. The temples of Angkor are spread over an area of three hundred square kilometres, although the most famous are clustered around the town of Siem Reap where the next chapter in this tale begins. Part of what is so special about this area is the mystical atmosphere and grandeur that surrounds the ancient temples which stand defiantly amongst dense patches of forest and vast rice paddies. The most famous of these temples is unmistakably Angkor Wat; a temple famed for its myth, mystery and outstanding architecture and it's reputation draws millions of wide-eyed hungry tourists to it's domain from dawn through to dusk every year. The complex series of galleries and the iconic five towers are undeniably magnificent and the first time I saw it at sunrise a familiar shiver went up my spine; a feeling I have felt numerous times on this trip, the first time being the moment I cast my eyes on the mesmerising Taj Mahal back in Agra all those months ago. When visiting the temples of Angkor there are several different types of ticket that allow entry into the complex: a one day, three day and seven day pass. Upon the recommendation of several other travellers who had already witnessed these ancient constructions I decided to opt for the $40 three day pass. When seeing this many temples there is always the possibility of becoming TEMPLED-out and so to keep myself interested and impressed every day, I decided to use the first two days to visit the smaller temples on the outskirts gradually building upto a trip to Angkor Wat on the final day at sunrise. Many people who visit Siem Reap tend to head straight for the proverbial 'biggies' on the first day and having seen them the other smaller temples that they come across on their remaining days, although still impressive, tend to fall short in comparison to their larger more striking brothers. A gradual build up would avoid this pitfall and in addition, leaving the best until last would only heighten the impact when I did eventually come across Angkor Wat. With the plan of action established then, the first task in this temple trekking trilogy was to go hunting for a tuk tuk driver as it's essential to get some form of transport to cover the relatively large distances between the temples everyday. Many people hire a bicycle to get from temple to temple but cycling around in that intense heat was not the most attractive proposition for me and so a tuk tuk seemed to be the logical alternative.  Also, the last thing I wanted was to be stuck as part of a larger tour-guide crowd having to constantly clock-watch and follow the rest of the sheep so it was really the only option for me. Venturing into town I approached several tuk tuk drivers in order to find a guy I liked and more importantly a decent price for his services. I had been told that about $10-12 per day was a fair price and after laughing off some ludicrous offers from several of the drivers ($70 plus) I finally found King Kong for $10 a day. Seeing as I would be spending three days with whoever I chose I wanted to get a certified joker and I found just that quality in King Kong who was a cheeky chap and full of banter which was clearly indicated by the Western name he had chosen to adopt to lure tourists. So on the morning of the 24th I was picked up at 9am by my jester of a driver and we set off to see the 10th century Banteay Srei, a fairytale micro-temple situated about 38km from Siem Reap. Over the course of the next three days I saw around ten of the main temples ending the glorious loop with a trip to Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and the majestic Bayon on the final day. I took about three hundred photographs in total so I think I'll just post the shots from the last day as they speak volumes about these unbelievable monuments...

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On the third day got up at 5.00am and jumped in the tuk tuk with King Kong to catch the famous Angkor Wat at sunrise. The previous night had got chatting to a Dutch guy called Daniel who said he wanted to do the same so happily managed to split the cost of the tuk tuk that day to $6 per person.

Location of Siem Reap in Cambodia.

A map of the Angkor complex. The red and green loops take in the most impressive temples. On my first and second days I visited the Rulous group situated in the bottom-right hand corner and Banteay Srei which was located just outside the north-east corner of the map.

As the sun broke through the fine mist that had laid itself overnight, the iconic towers came into life.

Angkor Wat.

As the sun steadied it's legs a rich golden beam silhouetted the towers in the early morning sky.

Angkor Wat.

A small water reserve mirrored an inverted Angkor Wat into a newborn sky overhead.

It was possible to walk about inside Angkor Wat, climbing up the central congregation of towers for an impressive close up view of the intricate stone masonry carved by ancient artists.

The intricate stone carvings covered every pillar within the complex.

At the heart of Angkor Wat lies a reclining Buddha.

Sanskrit inscriptions line the walls.

The richly decorated Bayon is famous for it's stone faces that glance out from their lofty perches.

Built in the late twelth century Bayon is one of the most visually arresting temples in the area.

Walking around the interior vast stone faces gaze down at you from every angle.

Bayon.

The temple lies in the middle of Angkor Thom

Richly decorated sculptures in the Terrace of the Leper King in Angkor Thom

Ta Phrom, the last temple I visited in Angkor is famed for it's battle with surging tree roots that gives it a very atmospheric jungle setting. The temple was used in the filming of the first Tomb Raider film.

Ta Phrom presents numerous photogenic battles between the temple and growing trees.