a life in words: biggle vision: a day in paradise

2nd March 2012

Ko Nang Yuan, Thailand

Ko Tao is the smallest and most remote of the Samui archipelago; a geographical fact that only adds to the entrancing nature of this paradise island. In terms of development the island's west coast has undergone some serious construction to cater for the increasing numbers of tourists who want to visit this alluring little island but thankfully the rest of it has remained largely untouched. Staying at the Blue Wind bungalow resort meant that it was about a two minute walk to the golden sands of Sairee beach that stretches down the island's western coast. This golden stroke was heavily populated by taxi-boat drivers all eager to take you on tours around the island and especially to the small island of Ko Nang Yuan which sits just off the north-west tip of Ko Tao. The Germans, Anselm and Daniel, had heard good things about the snorkeling on this small idyllic isle and so on our second day we chartered a taxi-boat with the German girls, Verena and Yasmin, and headed over there. After negotiating a fee of 150baht per person we clambered aboard the long tailed taxi-boat and skimmed through the clear blue waters towards the spectacular looking Ko Nang Yuan which has become famous for it's three-pronged white sand beach that connects the island's three rocky outcrops together. The area itself is dominated by the southernmost outcrop which rises out of the crystal turquoise waters like a leviathan and as I would find out later, a climb to it's peak offered incredible views of both Ko Nang Yuan and Ko Tao. It seems that paradise comes at a price though as bizarrely, unlike any other beach I've visited, we were charged to enter the area but it was a small admission fee for such a beautiful place. Getting off our long tailed boat we climbed onto the jetty and a short walk along a wooden pathway led us to the beach. Walking across the white sand we found some deckchairs to dump our stuff and I immediately headed for the water which was warm and inviting. Back at the guesthouse we had hired some masks and snorkels so along with Anselm I swam out to the Japanese Garden at the far end of the bay which was home to the most amazing coral reef I have ever seen. Adjusting my mask and blowing the excess water from my snorkel, I cast my gaze beneath the surface where I was greeted by an underwater city bustling with activity. Coral reef skyscrapers surged upwards from their sandy pavements while rainbow coloured fish darted down expansive marine boulevards. The reef glittered magically in the light generated by the sun's rays above which upon hitting the water were refracted about this underwater metropolis, bouncing off the scales of the multicoloured fish that darted around my body. The visibility was unbelievably clear and swimming into the middle of the coral reef I looked into the distance and saw massive bulbous structures stretching out around the cove; each teeming with vibrant marine life. When we had left for the island I had spotted some ominous looking clouds which had been loitering on the horizon and having been preoccupied by the life aquatic beneath the surface, I was caught in a brief downpour. Feeling specks of rain flick my back, I kicked my legs and swam down; turning around to look back up at a surface where small explosions rippled across the surface. Returning for air was like entering a battlefield as my head was struck by the cold pellets that contrasted starkly with the warm water below and in a bizarre turn of events it was actually warmer to be in the water than out of it; a surreal experience I've never come across before. Waiting for the storm to pass, I turned my gaze back beneath the water and spent the next half hour paddling around the bay, curiously staring down at the vast underwater palaces that lived beneath me. Back at the deck chairs, Daniel said he was keen to climb up the largest outcrop on the southern side as there was a path that apparently led up to a fairly spectacular viewpoint. By this time, the formidable grey clouds had moved on and the sun had since resumed it's dominant role in the sky which made for a sweaty climb up the winding staircase to the top of the hill. Once at the top, a small clearing on the rocks opened up that gave a fantastic birds eye view of the area and highlighted the fantastical and picturesque three-pronged white sand beach that connected the area together. It was actually possible to climb up further still over these incredible sketchy looking rocks that rested precariously on top of each other. Daniel made it look incredibly easy and not wanting to miss out I lumbered up having a few dodgy moments as I looked down and saw fifty foot drops beneath me. Somehow I managed to scramble up those rocks and the reward for such a risk was definitely worth it. Standing on the highest rock in the area gave 360 degree panoramic views of Ko Tao behind me and Ko Nang Yuan ahead. The white sand sliced through the turquoise waters in a photogenic battle between land and sea that captivated me and inspired the second edition of Biggle Vision...

Climbing back down that bloody mountain was one of the scariest things I've done because it was one of those situations where you can just about get up but getting back down is a complete nightmare. Jutting rocks and large drops were everywhere and a fair bit of frantic scrambling and blind leaps of faith got me back down so I hope you appreciate that I risked life and limb to get the photographs and video! Returning to the safety of the golden beach, I spent the rest of the afternoon snoozing away the hangover gained the night before and finishing off the latest Steinbeck I've been reading entitled 'The Wayward Bus', a novel I couldn't recommend highly enough. Once 5pm rolled around we had to meet up with our taxi boat driver who returned us back to Sairee beach where we spent the rest of the evening lounging around the Blue Wind bungalows.

Another great day in the Asian "Paradiso" (for those in the know..)